Cooking Lahmacun

There is a type of Turkish food that I have been missing for a while and thought that I would try to recreate it. I based my recipe on one I found at mymerhaba.com. My take is as follows:

Ingredients for the topping

  • 4 medium onions, peeled and chopped in four
  • 225g piquillo peppers
  • 750g minced beef
  • 1 tomato
  • 2tbsp tomato purée
  • 1 tbsp of salt
  • A handful of chopped parsley

Ingredients for the base

  • 1 small cup of oil (I used 3:1 vegetable oil to olive oil)
  • 1 small cup of water
  • 1 tbsp of salt
  • 1kg plain flour + some for rolling

Ingredients to serve

  • A handful of chopped, fresh parsley
  • A lemon

Set the oven to 220ºC and have two baking sheets on standby.

Blend the ingredients for the topping together until of a mixed, finely diced texture. Then, with your hands (or a strong spoon if you prefer) mix the blended ingredients into the minced meat well. You want to have an even, fine mix, but not to obliterate the meat so do not blend it. Leave to one side.

For the base, sift in the flour and salt into a large bowl. Make a well and pour in the oil and water. Mix and kneed well and leave to rest.

Dust a surface and prepare yourself for 60 minutes of non-stop activity. Take a walnut sized piece of dough, and roll it out as thin as you can, put it onto one of the baking trays and then spread out a tablespoon of the topping mixture as thin as you can over the surface. Put the tray in the oven for six minutes, and then start on the other tray. Keep making the lahmacun and rotating the trays through the oven. You should be able to make at least 20 reasonable lahmacun from the two mixtures.

Once cooked, they can be eaten immediately or by reheating under a hot grill for around 30 seconds. Squirt over some lemon juice, add some parsley and roll before eating still hot!

Cooked Lahmacun

This Turkish (or let’s say ‘regional’) pizza-style dish is absolutely delicious. It varies a little from country to country, but is almost always served fresh and cheaply as fast food or in restaurants alike.

Another Warning Message

This time, seen on the bottom of a box of magnetic chess:

Warning: This toy contains magnets or magnetic components. Magnets sticking together or becoming attached to a metallic object inside the human body can cause serious or fatal injury. Seek immediate medical help if magnets are swallowed or inhaled.

Woah! First off, ‘magnets sticking together … can cause serious or fatal injury‘. Really!? Maybe they meant something I’m missing, but this seems very unlikely. Perhaps that’s why the beams can’t cross in Ghostbusters.

Then there’s ‘magnets … becoming attached to a metallic object inside the human body can cause serious or fatal injury.‘ Right, I guess we’re talking pacemakers and things here, that’s fair enough. But it says ‘becoming attached to a metallic object inside the human body‘. Becoming attached? How? We find out in the next sentence of the warning. Before that next sentence, however, we have ‘inside the human body‘. Only the human body? If these things an occur to a human why can’t they occur to any other animal? My cat might have a pacemaker… Besides, if there’s a good reason why I’d have a metallic object in me, there’s surely a good case to be made for my cat.

Then we have ‘Seek immediate medical help if magnets are swallowed or inhaled.‘ Who swallows a magnet? More pressingly, who swallows a magnet shaped like a chess piece? Presumably the immediate medical help is not for the removal of the magnet, but to have you sectioned. In the latter case, for inhaling magnets, I guess the medical help is having your lungs downgraded from superhuman to human again. Because, let’s be frank, to inhale a chess-piece (magnetised or otherwise) is a very intense stunt to pull off.

Unless, of course, they are just trying to make sure that you call medical assistance if you’re choking on a chess piece (which is more likely than actually inhaling it). So let me ask you this, who wouldn’t!? Who would sit and choke thinking, ‘I wish I was choking on a fish bone, because then I could call for help. But woe is me, I’ll have to just sit here and suffer’.

An Englishman’s Attempt to Make Meatloaf

I was browsing through a ‘four ingredient’ recipe book when I stumbled upon Meatloaf. I’ve tried to make this before, but ended up with a cake of hard and dry (ruined!) minced beef. Stereotypes tell me that everyone in America loves meatloaf, so I couldn’t help but assume that I had got it very wrong the first time.

So, I gave this one a go… but made a few adjustments to it as follows. You will need:

  • 500g minced beef
  • 1 onion
  • 2 carrots
  • 200g peas
  • 200g sweetcorn
  • 2 eggs
  • salt and pepper
  • 1 cup (1/4 stale baguette’s worth) breadcrumbs
  • 2 tbsp tomato purée

I peeled my carrots and them put them through the grating attachment of my blender, followed by the peeled onion. You can just grate the carrot and finely chop the onion, but try it my way if you have the tools! Then, grate (with the blender!) a quarter of stale baguette or so and mix with the egg, 1tbsp purée, beef and all the vegetables. Add a generous amount of salt and pepper and mix in well.

The whole mix should be a little dry, and only stick if pressed to itself; the moisture will come from the vegetables as they cook. You need to spoon the mixture into a small bread tin, or similar, but not press it down. I think this was my mistake last time: fill all the gaps but do not compress the mixture. Then, spread the remaining purée over the top of the meatloaf.

Pop the dish into a preheated oven to 180′C for 50 minutes, and serve after allowing it to rest for a few minutes with fresh salad and bread, or pretty much anything else.

Confit de Canard (Light)

The following recipe is something I made up while wanting to cook duck the ‘nice way’, but not wanting to steep it in a vat of its own grease overnight. So, I had a play with some French ideas and tried the following. It turned out very well so I thought I’d share it here for you to try yourself.

You will need:

  • A slow cooker
  • four duck’s legs (or quarters), washed
  • two onions, peeled and chopped in quarters
  • five cloves of garlic, peeled
  • one bottle of French cider (a nice smokey, dry cidre de Normandie is best)
  • one litre of chicken stock

Start by heating up a large, heavy frying pan and put the duck legs in, fat side down. Keep the heat low, but enough to slowly render away the fat. After about 10 minutes, you should have a crisp and thin fat layer on the duck meat (the meat itself uncooked) sitting in a pan of duck fat. Take out the legs and put them into the slow cooker with all of the remaining ingredients. Switch the slow cooker to the ‘low’ setting and leave it for eight hours.

The legs will finish absolutely tender (you will have to be careful rescuing them from the stock) and just slightly pink inside. Serve them with some steamed vegetables and on some plain rice, or with an onion chutney and some fresh bread.

With the duck fat left in the original frying pan, you can store it for your Sunday roast potatoes; but the point of this was not to use it so I disposed of mine.

Red Tape

The French are legendary for their bureaucracy, and they are proud of it. Questioned about it, they will slyly deny it but with that look in their eye like a cheeky child who took a cookie without asking. It’s a national institution and, in a wholly un-metaphorical way, it is one that employs vast numbers of the country’s population. While the Brits have the NHS bogging down their national expenditure with 2.5% of the people in the UK employed there, and the Americans their enormous military budget, the French spend all their cash on fonctionnaires.

There are 6 million of them employed in France, that’s the population of greater London, and in 2005 they accounted for 44% of government spending. There are forms, regulations and procedures for everything, and the letter must be followed. It’s amazing that anything gets done, to be honest, but at the same time you know nothing will be left out. Having waded through the forms, photocopying, queueing, signatures, payments and photocopying, there’s photocopying. Regardless of the importance of your task to you, it makes no difference once it crosses into the French authorities – all are equal in France; in birth and intent.

I found recently that you could post your application for many things in to the authorities (often the local prefecture), and this is how I applied for my driving license here. A week passed before I received anything – it was the large A4 envelope that I had addressed and stamped for them (as requested). Within it was a small note that simply said “You can collect your license. Please bring proof of identity”. On the back of the card was the address to the local prefecture.

I couldn’t describe the pain that this caused me. I had experienced the prefecture once before, when first registering my car, and I had intended never to go there again. Last time I had queued behind 500 people, having arrived at 8.30 AM, and finally walked out at 2PM with my carte grise (a note binding me to my car). I dutily went to the prefecture, earlier this time and with a flask, and then queued until the doors opened. I was 15th in line for my driving license, and there were already 270 waiting for their cartes grises and other documents.

I got through the queues and to the booth for my license. I was handed a piece of card with a stamp badly stuck to it. Confused, I asked what it was and was told it was a present (this was the fourth word she had used that I finally understood) as I had attached one too many stamps to my envelope.

You see, this whole story is about this stamp. In a process that took weeks, required me to take a morning off work and photocopy a great many documents, and then to sign a great deal more, the process this lady followed even refunded me if I attached too many stamps to an envelope that wasn’t even required. The whole system is set up to ensure absolute and unwavering fairness and consistency, as this is the framework that the French have built for themselves since the revolution.

While the Brits are proud of their very excellent NHS, the French have a quietly perfect system. They do not mention it or boast about it because the whole world would turn up asking for a piece of it. Each individual is given a social security number and an associated social security card. The card works like a government credit card, only valid in medical institutes and only with the approval of a doctor. It works like this: you visit your preferred, approved doctor and pay them with the card. They refer you to whatever treatment and drugs you need. You go to whoever you feel provides the best service and get the treatment/drugs from them. You pay them with the card.

It allows for complete medical security, complete fairness and best of all, the survival of the fittest style competition only found in the commercial world. The government sets approved rates for treatment and so all doctors and dentists work to a predictable and comprehensible framework. They are incentivised to compete, be good, be professional, be friendly, be convenient. They manage themselves and those who don’t go out of business. It is a fantastic system, with a few minor drawbacks: everyone who comes to France as a foreigner must have either a European health insurance card, have a government agreement in place to provide like-for-like cover, or have private medical insurance. Secondly, no supermarkets can sell drugs unless they allow for an on-site pharmacy.

But for who it matters to, it works very well.

These paperwork regulations also extend into house rentals, protecting the renter and lender fully if the process is followed and paperwork provided. It covers employment, childcare, insurance, food, the sale of goods…. the list is endless, but it never fails to protect both parties equally and fully. All people do tax returns every year, and are invoiced at the end of the year for a bill that citizens in many other countries never see. This ensures that no assumptions are made about a persons situation. At all. It provides complete clarity to the government about your tax, and also to you. (It also means that everyone is fully aware that from January to March they are working for free, but after that it’s all theirs!)

But it is complex. Put it this way, I have scanned over 60 pages so far this morning, and I am less than a third of the way down my 2009 income tax return checklist. PWC in the UK wanted basically a signature and a signed sheet excusing them of any responsibility of actually making my return accurate. The French checklist started with “All previous payslips for this year and the last”, wonder through “passport”, “working contract” and “housing allowances” before getting to “quantity of baguettes bought per week” and “shoe size”.

There is a tool sent to me so that the process is “simplified” for me. The checklist is automatically generated at the end of the form-filling…. Get that, the checklist itself is so complex they felt the need to automate it. What does that say about the rest of the return?

What’s more, the “simplification” means that I am asked questions like “How much did you spend on chocolate last year?”, and then “Please indicate if you are covered under the thirteenth treaty of the 1943 agreement, part 9, article 17, page 439, paragraph 6. If so, you are not eligible for tax reductions on doggy snacks.”.

It is endlessly deep, asking about foreign money earned, the sort of house I own, my dependents, everything. At the end of it all, there is a final statement “If your total calculated tax sum is more than 50% of your earnings this year, then remember to deduct the difference”.

Finally something simple.